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Peak Khan Tengri
Tour description
Where China borders on Kazakhstan, Kirgizstan and Tadjikistan the Tien-Shan mountains are lying. Khan-Tengri is one of the most beautiful summits of the Tien-Shan mountain country and of the World. Once you take a look at it you will never forget it. Its regular shape and considerable prominence allow you to recognize it from remote points. It rises up to 7010 m above sea level and has a black rock face on the North side, a silver ice slope on the East and a pinkish marble face on the South. There is the easiest access to the summit along the West ridges, where a normal route goes to the top but it is not a very simple one. On some hard plots there are fix-ropes. It takes 4 nights for an average team to reach the top.

At the foot of Khan-Tengri two glaciers — the North and the South Inylchek — glide over a length of about 70 km. Base Camp is situated on the South Inylchek, about two hours to walk from Khan foot, at an altitude of 4000 m. The place is a rock, ice and snow kingdom, and only at the end of July is it possible to find a score of tiny yellow flowers on the southern slopes.

A climate of the area is rigorous enough and very changeable. The usual time to visit the place is from the July 15 until the August 20, because it is the summer time of the most stable weather. The meteorological statistic shows, that the months of September and October are the ones of the most stable weather all over the year, but the temperature is lower. We climbed on the months there with very good climate conditions and an excellent snow state. Besides the time there is no big crowd at Base Camp and on the way. You have to understand an importance to have your mountaineering background, fitness and equipment suitable to rather severe condition of the region. Base Camp South Inylchek will be active between 1st July and 10th September 2008

For your pleasure we have: Basic program, 21 days

Cost of full package is: 1740 Euro per person.

Full package includes:

  • meeting/seeing-off at Airport in Bishkek or Almaty;
  • transfer Airport in Bishkek/Almaty – hotel — Airport in Bishkek/Almaty;
  • transfer Bishkek/Almaty to helicopter landing spot in Karkara and back;
  • helicopter flight to BC and back;
  • unlimited luggage weight on the helicopter flight to BC and back
  • accommodation at hotels in Bishkek/Almaty breakfast included;
  • accommodation at the Karkara camp, full boarding;
  • accommodation and 3 times a day boarding at BC
  • free usage of hot shower and sauna, toilet and cloak-room at BC
  • consultancy service of local guide;
  • consultancy of doctor;
  • registration with local Rescue Party;
  • ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;
  • usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;
  • rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents;
  • usage of fixed ropes on the route;
  • change of air-flight and railway tickets;
  • frontier zone permit;
  • official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed)

    The cost does not include:

  • The cost of Kyrgyz visa
  • International flight
  • All optional deviations from the main itinerary
  • Beverages and meals not included in main menu
  • All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.)
  • The services of a mountain guide and porters for ascending
  • The rent of mountaineering equipment for ascent
  • Meals in cities Bishkek/Almaty and by the way to Karkara.

    Porter & guide services, rent of tents for high camps are available for additional charge:

  • Guide for the group of 1-3 person – the cost 2100 USD per group
  • Porters – BC – Camp 1 – 2 USD/per kg
  • Camp 1 – Camp 2 – 8 USD/per kg
  • Camp 2 – Camp 3 – 16 USD/per kg
  • Rent of tents for high camps – 80 Euro per period of expedition
  • Gas cartridges of 230 g (butane/propane) – 6 euro per one cartridge
  • International call by satellite telephone – 6 USD/min

    List of items, which will be of use:

  • Garments, footwear — a standard high-altitude set
  • Camp gear – a tent (is advisable to be of high-peak standard), a sleeping bag, a sleeping pad, a gas stove, plates and dishes.
  • Climbing gear – ice-axe, crampons, harness, self-security line, 2 x Screwgate karabiners, plastic mountaineering boots
  • High-altitude foodstuff